Judging Coffee Beans
Judging Coffee Beans The Barista
Way
A 'Barista' is someone
who makes coffee drinks as a profession. Naturally, that
experience will shape how beans are judged.
'Cuppers' (coffee contest judges or
professional tasters) and company buyers share the barista's
goal of finding good quality coffee beans which produce a great
drink. But it's the barista who stands in front of the final
consumer every day and receives immediate feedback on the
success or failure of those efforts.
So, let's find out what the Barista thinks about coffee
beans and the final product...
Roughly 70 countries now grow coffee from
which beans are produced, from Africa to the Middle East, from
South America to the Caribbean and over to Hawaii - all within
a band about the equator of roughly 25 degrees north or
south.
Not surprisingly then, given the differences in climate
altitude, equipment and techniques - and a host of other
factors - beans from different countries show marked
differences. Even different plantations will often have
drastically different products.
Even so, coffee plants come in two main
categories - arabica and robusta. With half the caffeine of the
robusta, the arabica is used almost exclusively for the finest
coffees. Its beans are more flavorful and full of aroma.
Since coffee grows better at higher altitudes the Milds -
arabica beans from plants grown at 3000 feet (915m) or above -
are to be preferred. 'Brazils' by contrast are arabica beans
grown in Brazil, but at a much lower altitude.
Beyond that, judgments will differ depending on whether the
consumer intends to 'roast their own' or not. Unroasted beans
are green, soft and have a vegetative odor, which is
normal.
For those seeking roasted, the categories broaden. There's a
light or 'cinnamon' (named for the color of the spice; nothing
to do with the flavor). These are acidic and highly
caffeinated.
Coffee Bean roasting
The medium or 'American' roast is slightly
darker and enormously popular since it's the degree used by the
major coffee vendors (Folger, Yuban, etc). Not a quality cup by
most barista's standards.
Dark or 'City' roast is what is seen in
many specialty shops, where the process has reduced the
caffeine and acid taste. The result is a less bitter, often
sweeter cup. This is what's generally used for the average
espresso.
Next in line is the 'French' roast, so
named because the French tend to prefer their coffee more
full-bodied. The beans will appear very dark brown and have an
oily texture or sheen. Look carefully and sniff so as not to
confuse these with beans that have merely been burnt.
Darkest on the drinkable scale is the 'Italian'
roast, often used in specialty espressos. The deep
brown color and pungent aroma are distinctive and make a fine
cup.
As one goes down the scale of color, the cups made from
these beans will be increasingly less acid and more sweet. This
is a consequence of the carmelization (browning and thickening
into syrup) of sugars resulting from the roasting process. At
the same time some of the caffeine - a bitter chemical - is
burned away, producing a mellower cup.
So, next time you shop for beans give a thought to the
barista who stands daily in front of an array of choices and
with an arsenal of machines. That person knows beans.
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